François Chidaine 'Les Choisilles' Montlouis 2019
“The Pope of Montlouis and Vouvray—just a sublimely great producer. He knows his vineyards better than anyone and he styles his cuvees according to the contours of each vineyard. He lets the vintage dictate the wine, meaning he has no formula, but determines each year the length of fermentations and durations of ageing. It’s a classic and very honest way of making old-school wine. The wines are pure and clean, yet profoundly expressive. And they are still phenomenal value.” Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay, The Sommelier’s Atlas of Taste
Les Choisilles is named after the type of black flint abundant in the parcels that gift this wine. The main vineyards involved are Les Epinais, La Taille aux Loups and Clos Renard. The bedrock across these sites is tuffeau (local limestone), and the vines range in age from 30 to 90 years. This is a wonderfully racy, mineral, dry Chenin of intensity and drive. The notes below sum it up very well.