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Piero Benevelli ‘Ravera di Monforte’ Barolo 2015

The 2015 plays off this balance with particular flair: plush, ripe dark fruit laced with flowers and leather shows through, supported by firm acidity and a fine, grippy tannin.

It exudes loads of early-drinking charm without sacrificing age-worthiness — you’ll see that after only a few years it begins to show aromas of white truffles.

Decant for an hour or so if you can’t keep your hands off.